Whatever you do in Stockholm, don’t miss the delights of the city’s southern island, Södermalm, whose craggy cliffs, turrets and towers rise high above the clogged traffic interchange at Slussen. The perched buildings are vaguely forbidding, but venture beyond the main roads skirting the island and a lively and surprisingly green area unfolds, one that is at heart emphatically working class. After dark, you’ll probably end up in one of Söder’s bars or restaurants in the hip area known as So-Fo; this is the handful of streets lined with cafés and restaurants which lie “south of Folkungagatan” (hence the name), predominantly Åsögatan, Bondegatan and Skånegatan. It’s best to get your bearings on Södermalm during the day, though, as its grids of streets can become confusing in the dark.

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