It’s a dramatic, ten-kilometre journey southwest from Sóller along the Ma-10 to the beautiful village of DEIÀ, where the mighty Puig des Teix mountain ramps down to the coast. At times, this thoroughfare is too congested to be much fun, but the tiny heart of the village, tumbling over a high and narrow ridge on the seaward side of the road, still preserves a surprising tranquillity. Here, labyrinthine alleys of old peasant houses curl up to a pretty country in the precincts of which stands the grave of Robert Graves (1895–1985), the village’s most famous resident – marked simply “Robert Graves: Poeta, E.P.D.” (En Paz Descanse: “Rest In Peace”). From the graveyard, the views out over the coast are truly memorable.

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