South of Pamplona, the country changes rapidly; the mountains are left behind and the monotonous plains of central Spain begin to open out. The people are different, too – more akin to their southern neighbours than to the Basques of the north. Regular buses and trains run south to Tudela, the second city of Navarra, passing through Tafalla and Olite, once known as the “Flowers of Navarra”, while attractive smaller towns and villages dot the area.

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