The city of Zaragoza houses nearly half of Aragón’s 1.5 million population, and most of its industry. It’s a big but enjoyable place, with a lively zone of bars and restaurants tucked in among remarkable monuments, and it’s a handy transport nexus, too, for both Aragón and beyond. Its province includes the Mudéjar towns of Tarazona, Calatayud and Daroca, and, along the border with Navarra, the old Cinco Villas, a series of lovely mountain villages, of which the most interesting is Sos del Rey Católico. Wine enthusiasts can also follow the Ruta de los Vinos, south from Zaragoza through Cariñena to Daroca.

Teruel province is a lot more remote, and even the capital doesn’t see too many passing visitors. It is unjustly neglected, considering its superb Mudéjar monuments, and if you have transport of your own, there are some wonderful rural routes to explore: especially west, through Albarracín to Cuenca, or south to Valencia. The valleys and villages of the Sierra de Gúdar and El Maestrazgo, which borders Valencia province, are the most remote of the lot: a region largely untouched by tourism, and where transport of your own is a big help.

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