On the other, less touristy side of the mountains from Bohinj, the brilliantly turquoise River Soča streaks through the western spur of the Julian Alps, running parallel with the Italian border. During World War I, the Soča marked the front line between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian armies; now memorial chapels and abandoned fortifications nestle incongruously amid awesome Alpine scenery. The valley is a major centre for activity-based tourism, with the river providing ideal rafting and kayaking conditions throughout the spring and summer, and the mountain slopes perfect for skiing and snowboarding in winter. The main tourist centres are Kobarid and Bovec, both small towns boasting a range of walking possibilities. The GZS 1:50,000 Zgornje Posočje map covers trails in the region.