Just forty minutes from Oban by ferry, Mull is by far the most accessible of the Hebrides. As so often, first impressions largely depend on the weather – it’s the wettest of the Hebrides (and that’s saying something) – as without the sun the large tracts of moorland, particularly around the island’s highest peak, Ben More (3196ft), can appear bleak and unwelcoming. There are, however, areas of more gentle pastoral scenery around Dervaig in the north and the indented west coast varies from the sandy beaches around Calgary to the cliffs of Loch na Keal. The most common mistake is to try and “do” the island in a day or two: slogging up the main road to the picturesque capital of Tobermory, then covering the fifty-odd miles between there and Fionnphort, in order to visit Iona. Mull is a place that will grow on you only if you have the time and patience to explore.