Romania has the largest wolf and brown bear populations in Europe. Transylvanian Wolf (t 0744/319 708, w www.transylvanianwolf.ro) is an organization offering guided walks (around 300 lei for up to 5 people, 65 lei for each extra person) tracking wolves, bears, red deer and lynx under the eagle eye of Dan Marin, an award-winning tracker who works closely with conservation organizations and the new Piatra Craiului National Park.

In winter there’s also the chance to see some spectacular snow-covered landscapes, and take part in sleigh rides and cross-country skiing. Treat yourself and stay in the Marins’ spectacular family guesthouse (Str I. Metianu nr. 108, Zărneşti; 200 lei), where all meals (breakfast, dinner and packed lunch) are home-cooked and included in the price.

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