For a more low-key, but no less satisfying, experience than Bran, jump off the Braşov bus in nearby Râşnov, where the hilltop fortress and the views are stunning. North of Bran is Zărneşti, a charming small town that is the perfect jumping-off point for trips into the Făgăraş Mountains. You can stay at the homely Pensiunea Mosorel, Str Dr Senchea 162, where you can also pitch a tent for the night. For a near-medieval mountain escape, spend a night at Cabana Montana, in the picturesque hamlet of Magură, on the flanks of the Piatra Craiului Mountains just south of Zărneşti. Phone ahead and they’ll pick you up from Zărneşti’s bus station.

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