The walled Cidadela is the obvious place to begin, and lies a fifteen-minute walk up the hill from the modern city centre. The hill above Bragança has been settled in one form or another since prehistoric times; the Romans probably had a small fortification here; and the current walled town and castle have stood since at least the twelfth century and formed the strategic base of the early Bragança dynasty.

Domus Municipalis

Walk up through the main gate of the Cidadela, and at the very top of the cobbled street stands the curious, pentagonal fifteenth-century council chamber known as the Domus Municipalis. Its meetings – for solving land disputes and the like – took place on the arcaded first floor; below was a cistern. Next to the Domus, the Igreja de Santa Maria features a fine painted ceiling, while opposite, the Vila Café (closed Mon) provides an outdoor terrace with courtyard views.

Torre de Menagem

Dominating the walled citadel is the restored castle keep, the Torre de Menagem, which now houses a missable Museu Militar, although it’s worth paying the entrance fee for the fine views from the top. At night, the whole fortification is floodlit and imposes itself even more dramatically upon the entire city. Round the other side of the keep, meanwhile, you’ll find an ancient granite pig that forms part of a rather odd pelourinho (stone pillory).

Museu Ibérico da Máscara e do Traje

There are more reminders of the pagan ways of the wild north in the Museu Ibérico da Máscara e do Traje, a few steps down the hill from the keep, which highlights the extraordinary ritual masks and ribboned costumes habitually seen in winter festivals on both sides of the border (kids get to crayon their own devil masks). This is a town, for example, where on Ash Wednesday (usually late February or early March) people dressed as devils run around whipping penitents – the origins probably lie in an ancient fertility cult, when it was believed that Pan impregnated women simply by smacking them.

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