GOLEGÃ, on the west bank of the Rio Tejo, midway between Tomar and Santarém, is a pleasant riverside town which calls itself “Capital of the Horse”, a claim it backs up with black-horse silhouettes hanging outside virtually every business. It is best known for its Feira Nacional do Cavalo (National Horse Fair), held during the first two weeks of November. The fair incorporates celebrations for St Martin’s Day on November 11, when there’s a running of the bulls and a grand parade of red-waistcoated grooms. Other than during the feira, Golegã makes for a brief visit: the sixteenth-century Igreja Matriz flanks its main square, a couple of cafés put out tables under the trees, while the old market has been turned into a small shopping complex.

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