From Arganil, it’s around an hour’s beautiful drive via Coja to PIÓDÃO, a traditional schist village set on a steeply terraced mountainside. Despite the slight theme-park atmosphere, its narrow streets are great to explore and the whole village affords superb valley views. There’s a small museum on Largo Cónego Manuel Fernandes Nogueira (daily: June–Sept 10am–1pm & 2–6pm; Oct–May 9am–1pm & 2–5pm; free), which provides an insight into traditional village life with displays on subjects such as emigration and the economy, as well as daily toil. You can follow a couple of short walks from Piódão into the countryside – these are well signposted from the village, or pick up walk leaflets from the information office in the musuem.

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