The Trollstigen road was completed in 1936 to replace the Kløvstien, the original drovers’ track that cut an equally improbable course over the mountains. Much of the track has disappeared, but you can pick it up at Slettvikane, from where it’s a one-hour walk north across a barren mountain plateau to the Trollstigplatået. The Kløvstien then proceeds down the mountains as far as Bøsetra, passing the Stigfossen falls on the way; although this stretch only takes an hour or two, it’s very steep and exposed, with chains to assist. Both of these hikes are, of course, linear, which is one reason why most hikers prefer to undertake less demanding, circular outings among the peaks and mountain lakes to the west. By contrast, the mountains to the east are part of the Trollveggen mountain wall and remain the preserve of climbers. As usual, prospective hikers should come properly equipped and watch for sudden weather changes. It’s best to plan your itinerary in advance: hiking maps and advice are available from the tourist offices at both Geiranger and Åndalsnes.