There are dozens of picturesque odds and ends around the streets, which are as wonderfully explorable as any in the region. Along Via dei Consoli – the main medieval street (and home to most of the ceramic shops) – it’s worth tracking down the Barghello, the medieval police station. This also gives you the chance to survey the adjacent Fontana dei Matti (the “fountain of the mad”), undistinguished but for the tradition that anyone walking round it three times will end up mad.

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