If you arrive late and need a place on spec, most of Palermo’s budget hotels lie on and around the southern ends of Via Maqueda and Via Roma, close to Stazione Centrale. However, you will get far more for your money staying in one of the new wave of B&Bs. Orizzonte Rosso (w orizzonterosso.com) is a well-organized outfit with a range of centrally located apartments, which also organizes upmarket boat trips and tailormade excursions all over Sicily.

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