Almost all the sights you’ll want to see in Cagliari are within the old Castello quarter, on the hill overlooking the port. Traditionally, this was the seat of the administration, aristocracy and highest ecclesiastical offices. The most evocative entry is from the monumental, late nineteenth-century Bastione di Saint Remy rising up from Piazza Costituzione. At the top of the grandiose flight of steps inside, you can enjoy Cagliari’s best views over the port and the lagoons beyond – sunset is a good time to be here, and there are some chic bars at the top for whiling away an evening. Note that the Bastione is closed for renovation work until 2017.