On the tip of Italy’s boot, the great massif of Aspromonte is the last spur of the Apennines, where you can pass from the brilliant, almost tropical vegetation of the coast to dense forests of beech and pine that rise to nearly 2000m. Although it has been a national park since 1989, the thickly forested mountain is not an established tourist destination – mostly due to its reputation as the stronghold of the ’Ndrangheta, the Calabrian Mafia. On top of this, the area remains virtually unsigned, and the oppressive tree cover rarely breaks to provide views. If you’re in a car, note the Strada Interotta (“Road interrupted”) signs at the entrances, and only attempt the rocky dirt tracks across the range in an off-road vehicle.

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