North Kerry, flat, rich farming land that runs as far as the Shannon estuary, feels quite different from the rest of the county – and they’ve even been known to play hurling rather than Gaelic football up here. Instead of the remote, spectacularly set coastal villages of the peninsulas, you’ll find – or avoid – the traditional, kiss-me-quick resorts of Ballyheigue and Ballybunion, while the county town of Tralee seems quite anodyne if you’ve just come up from Dingle, for example. It is worth making time, however, for Listowel, a characterful small town that’s a hotbed of literary activity.

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