Nineteen kilometres from Killarney is KILLORGLIN, a distinctly missable town on the River Laune apart from for three mad days in the middle of August during the Puck Fair (wwww.puckfair.ie), which draws in crowds of up to thirty thousand. First a wild goat is stalked in the mountains, then caged and crowned as king of the town, the signal for a Dionysian festival of wine and song, plus a traditional horse fair. The event has pagan roots in the Celtic harvest festival of Lughnasa, though these particular ceremonies are meant to commemorate the herd of goats that ran down into Killorglin, to warn the townsfolk that Cromwell’s army was on its way.

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