Arnarstapi is a starting point for hikes and jeep drives up to Snæfellsjökull via Route F570, but is also known for its snowmobiling excursions across the glacier. Snjófell cottage (435 6783) organizes ninety-minute trips (Feb to mid-June; 25,000kr/person); speeding along the ice top is an exhilarating experience, and the views of the glacier and the coastline are breathtaking when the weather is good – but don’t be tempted to head onto the ice if it’s raining because you’ll see nothing. If speed isn’t your thing, a slower snowcat, a sort of open-top truck on caterpillar tracks, also carries groups of twenty or so across the ice (1hr trips 8500kr).

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