Fjallabak is an area covering two old traffic routes which ran, quite literally, fjallabak – “behind the mountains” north of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier. Today, one of these has been resurrected as the F208, which runs from Landmannalaugar to Kirkjubæjarklaustur via Eldgjá, a deep, 40km-long volcanic canyon with a spectacular accompanying waterfall, Ófærufoss. From late June until September, daily Reykjavík to Skaftafell buses (w bsi.is) cover this entire route in just five hours, though you’ll definitely need to stop off along the way at Eldgjá to get the most from the journey.

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