One popular walk from Seyðisfjörður starts by following the road along the north side of the fjord for a couple of kilometres to the Vestdalsá, the first real river you’ll encounter on the way. Just before you reach it, a trail heads uphill along Vestadalur, a valley leading up into the hills to a small lake, Vestdalsvatn, past several pretty waterfalls; allow five hours to make the return hike from town.

In the opposite direction, follow the road through town and out along the south side of the fjord for 8km to the site of Þórarinsstaðir, a former farm where archeologists unearthed the foundations of a church dating from the eleventh century, believed to be the oldest such remains in the country. Not much further on, Eyrar is yet another abandoned farm, though here the ruins are far more substantial; it’s hard to believe now, but this was once one of the region’s busiest settlements. Experienced hikers can spend an extra half-day walking south across mountains from here to Mjóifjörður, the next fjord south.

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