BORGARFJÖRÐUR EYSTRI, also known as Bakkagerði, is a diminutive community
of farmers and fishermen at the end of the mostly gravel Route 94, some 70km from Egilsstaðir. The journey here on Route 94 crosses Héraðsfloí, negotiates a steep mountain pass and then descends to the coast and some dangerously loose cliffs, a hazard attributed to the malevolent local spirit Naddi. Despite being pushed into the sea by a farmer during the fourteenth century,
Naddi remains active, judging by the state of the road. Keep an eye out for a protective cross by the roadside with the Latin inscription Effigiem Christi qui transis pronus honora (“You who hurry past, honour Christ’s image”). But once arrived, Borgarfjörður is a charming location, steeped in local lore, with a wide fjord to the front and a backdrop of steep, colourful mountainsides. The core of the village surrounds its old harbour; while a new harbour, 5km up the coast, is home to a large puffin colony.