Heading up Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca from the bus terminal you’ll pass the imposing synagogue, which dominates Kossuth tér. The beautiful nineteenth-century interior is hauntingly impressive; over 4000 Pécs Jews died in the Holocaust and only a tenth of that number live in Pécs today. During the Ottoman occupation (1543–1686), Pécs’ chief church, in a commanding position on Széchenyi tér, was converted into the Mosque of Gázi Kászim Pasha, which now stands as the last remaining of 17 mosques the Ottomans built in Pécs. The building has again been converted to serve as a church – and a cross placed atop the crescent on its roof – but the underlying design is unmistakably Islamic.

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