A short boat ride from Pärnu lies an island stuck in a delightful time warp. The four hundred or so inhabitants of Kinhu sustain a traditional way of life that you won’t find on the Estonian mainland. You’ll find young women wearing traditional striped woollen skirts, just like their great-grandmothers, and see little old ladies riding old-fashioned Soviet motorcycles with sidecars (there are no cars on the island). The only place to stay is the Rock City Guesthouse; open June–Aug only and must be booked in advance. To get here, take a ferry from the ferry quay at Kalda 2.