On the Chlorakas coast 4km north of Kato Pafos, clearly signposted from the main road, a monument and statue mark the spot where General George Grivas landed on November 10, 1954 to spark off the EOKA uprising. Next to the memorial is a small museum housing the caïque Agios Georgios which ran guns and EOKA fighters during the struggle for independence before being intercepted by the British. The boat was bought by order of Archbishop Makarios to become a symbol of the resistance. Other (inevitably nationalistic) exhibits include weapons, documents and photographs relating to the gun-running activities along this coast, plus a visitors’ book which makes enlightening reading – somebody who’d served in the British Army in Cyprus, for example, commented that the museum was “biased”, which makes one wonder what they expected.

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