The area to the west of Larnaka is an almost polar opposite to the in-your-face tourism and the ever-present political division to the east. Instead you’ll find a rural hinterland of farmland and small villages, with Venetian towers, churches, monasteries and convents, little ports like Zygi, and Troodos foothill villages. In particular, look out for Neolithic settlements at Tenta and Choirokoitia, the eccentric museum of naive artist Costas Argyrou at Mazotos, a camel park in the same village, and a museum of embroidery and silver (and lots of lace and silverware shops) in Lefkara.

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