A few kilometres north of Paralimni, DERYNEIA has a dinky square containing the usual war memorial, a small church, and a kafenio. There’s also a small Folk Art Museum – just off the main drag at 2 Demetris Lipertis and well signposted. So far so typical of many Cypriot villages. The unique thing about Deryneia, though, is its position on a hillside overlooking the Green Line, which offers impressive views over Gazimağusa in north Cyprus (the town is still defiantly known as Famagusta here). Nowhere are the effects of the 1974 invasion clearer or more affecting. At the bottom of the slope the Turkish flags, military buildings and barbed wire begin, and beyond them stretches the suburb of Varosha, once a vibrant coastal resort, now a sorry expanse of empty and increasingly dilapidated buildings.