Throbbing heart of Zagreb’s pavement-café culture, pedestrianized Preradovićev trg, is referred to by most locals as Cvjetni trg (Flower Square), after the flower market that used to be held here until the area was cleaned up in the 1980s – a few sanitized florists’ pavilions still survive. Watching over the scene is Ivan Rendić’s 1895 statue of Petar Preradović (1818–72), a general in the Austro-Hungarian army who wrote some of the Croatian language’s most evocative romantic poetry. Behind the statue rises the grey form of the Serbian Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna crkva), an unassuming nineteenth-century building whose candlelit, icon-filled interior, heavy with the smell of incense, is worth a quick peek.

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