Built to prevent a repeat of the 1964 flood, the Sava Embankment (Savski nasip) runs along both sides of the River Sava for the whole length of the river’s passage through Zagreb. With a foot- and cycle-path running along the top, it’s here that locals come to stroll, ride bikes, get pulled along by dogs, or indulge in athletic bursts of exercise. Walking from the Bundek in the east to Lake Jarun in the west – crossing the river at Most Slobode – is a great way to spend an afternoon, and might feasibly be combined with a side-trip to the Museum of Contemporary Art.

The busiest part of the Embankment is the stretch from Most Slobode to Savski Most (25min), which offers sweeping views of Zagreb’s skyline on both sides of the river. The Kockica or Cube, built to serve as the headquarters of the Croatian League of Communists, is one of the cool slabs of modernist architecture you will pass on the way. Of the string of sculptures along this part of the embankment, Zvonimir Lončarić’s Putokaz (“Signpost”) is the most frequently photographed – it features a pair of brightly painted female legs pointing cheekily skyward. Looming to the west is the iconic cast-iron arch of the railway bridge, popularly known as “Hendrix Bridge” on account of the rock-fan graffiti that once graced its western side.

From Savski Most you can catch a tram back to the centre or continue along the embankment to Lake Jarun (25min), enjoying views of the Zagreb Arena sports- and concert-hall on the opposite bank. With Lake Jarun in sight you descend from the embankment just behind the Aquarius club, which works as a café during the day and is the perfect place to take a breather.

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