Quality seafood restaurants are becoming the rule in Hvar Town, while traditional inns in the interior are dependable places to try baked and grilled meats. One speciality particular to Hvar is gregada, a stew of fish cooked in white wine – few restaurants bother to serve it in single portions, however, so you’ll have to order it for two or more people to make it worthwhile.

As for wine, best known of the local grape varieties is the rich red Plavac mali, grown everywhere in the fertile middle of the island and along the southern coast, while the indigenous Bogdanjuša grape produces an intriguing dry white. There isn’t really any bad wine on Hvar – the house wines served by local restaurants are usually from a nearby vineyard and (never less than enjoyable) are frequently very fine indeed. Bottled wines produced by the Svirče cooperative are sold in supermarkets throughout Croatia and their inexpensive Plavac Hvar red represents outstanding value. Tomić and Duboković (both based near Jelsa) are two highly regarded local wineries focusing on quality boutique production – either are well worth a splurge.

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