Your best bet for bathing opportunities in the Šibenik area is to head for the nearby islands of Zlarin and Prvić, where you stand a good chance of finding a secluded bit of rocky shoreline and crystal-clear water. There’s no mass tourism on the islands, and no cars – merely a succession of orderly and neat little villages kept alive by a trickle of independent tourists and weekending Croatians.

The ferry trip from Šibenik is a treat in itself, with the boat ploughing its way through St Anthony’s Channel (Kanal svetog Ante), a narrow, cliff-lined waterway which leads from the bay of Šibenik out into the open sea. At the far end of the channel lies the sixteenth-century St Nicholas’s Fortress (Tvrđava svetog Nikole), a monumental triangular gun battery placed here by Venetian engineers to keep enemy shipping away from Šibenik’s port.

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