It’s about 3km from Sali to the northern edge of Telašćica Bay, a 7km channel overlooked by smooth hills and indented with numerous smaller bays which run down to the tangle of islands at the northern end of the Kornati archipelago. The flora along the shoreline marks the transition from the green vegetation of the Zadar archipelago to the bare wilderness of the Kornati – banks of deep forest slope down towards the western shore of the bay, where maquis-covered offshore islands rise like grey-brown cones from the water – and the whole place has been designated a nature park.

From the car park it’s a twenty-minute walk to Uvala mira (Bay of Peace) at the park’s centre. There’s a bar and restaurant here, and a path that leads, after five minutes’ walk up a wooded hillside, to a stretch of ruddy clifftop looking out towards the open sea. Five minutes south of the restaurant lies Jezero mira, a saltwater lake cut off from the sea by a narrow barrier of rock. The excessively salty water of the lake is several degrees warmer than the sea in summer, and has therapeutic fango mud in its southeastern corner. Walk to the end of the lake to reach the rock barrier that separates it from the sea – it’s a popular spot for sunbathers and swimmers, many of whom have constructed towers and pyramids from the local pebbles and rocks to crate an eerie but compelling forest of stone.

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