An attractive huddle of stone houses on the western side of the island, MURTER TOWN was traditionally home to the fishermen and sheep-farmers who owned land on the Kornati islands and spent most of their time sailing in Kornati waters. The settlement’s seafront is still characterized by the untidy jumble of boathouses and jetties that jut out from each household – this is one Adriatic town that does not have a continuous, strollable Riva. However Murter’s alleyways are as atmospheric as they come, and the oldest part of town – grouped up on a hill 1km inland from the modern centre – is well worth the climb. The sea around Murter is crystal clear, the surrounding countryside is unspoiled, and there is a relative lack of package hotels – giving the place a relaxed, independent-traveller vibe.

 

Beaches

There are pleasant if unexciting family-oriented beaches (mostly concrete and gravel) at Zdrače at the eastern end of town and Hramina at the west. More attractive is the pebbly affair at Slanica Bay, fifteen minutes’ walk farther west – there’s rarely enough room to swing a bikini here on summer weekends, but it’s an enchanting place from which to watch the sun set over the Kornati once the crowds have thinned. Taking the coastal path south from Slanica leads you past several rocky bathing areas before arriving at Čigrađa Bay (20min), which is as attractive as Slanica but much less crowded.

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