As elsewhere in the Adriatic fresh seafood dominates the northern Dalmatian menu, although the broad maquis-covered plateaus just inland provide plenty in the way of lamb and game. The practice of roasting meats and bulky seafood dishes such as octopus ispod peke (slow-cooked under an ember-covered metal lid) is widespread – you should definitely try a peka-style at least once, though note that they require several hours of preparation and restaurants usually require advance notice. Lamb and suckling pig roasted on a spit is another regional favourite, and roadside restaurants will frequently have a carcass revolving slowly over an open fire in the front yard.

Nowhere is the blend of maritime and inland cuisine better developed than in Skradin, the small town that stands at the entrance to the Krka National Park. Here, the plenteous shellfish and oysters of the Krka estuary are consumed alongside the freshwater fish and eels of the river’s upper reaches. Dishes found in Skradin and nowhere else include Skradinski rižot, a meat-based risotto that was (traditionally at least) slow-cooked for days prior to important feasts; and Skradinska torta, a cake composed of finely crushed nuts and syrup.

Vineyards run along the coast and new ones are being planted all the time. Best known of the local wines is Babić, a fruitily drinkable red; it is closely associated with Primošten (where arguably the best Babić is grown), although it’s found all along the Šibenik coast.

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