Just inland from Rijeka’s seafront Riva, fountain-splashed Jadranski trg serves as the western entrance to Rijeka’s pedestrianized city centre. Looming above it is one surviving symbol of interwar Italian architecture, the russet-coloured Veliki neboder (literally “big skyscraper”), a boldly functional office block whose grid-like facade looks like a monumental CD rack – and has unsurprisingly earned the building the nickname of ormar-ladičnjak or “chest of drawers”. On the south side of the square look out for the towering neo-Renaissance Jadrolinija building, built for the Adria shipping company in 1897 and sporting allegorical statues symbolizing the continents.

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Video: a 1 minute guide to Croatia

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