Seen from the mainland, PAG is a desolate pumice-stone of an island that looks as if it could barely support any form of life. Around eight thousand people live here, looking after three times as many sheep, who scour the stony slopes in search of edible plant life. Much of their diet comes from sage, which covers the eastern side of the island with a grey-green carpet. The two main settlements are Pag Town, with an attractive historic centre, and Novalja, a buzzing modern settlement whose nearby Zrće beach is arguably the prime venue for Adriatic clubbing. Roaming further afield, the sleepy Lun peninsula is famous for its ancient olive groves, while the inland village of Kolan is the place to buy a hunk or two of the island’s famous cheese.

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