LOVRAN is an Italianate, green-shuttered little town with a small harbour, fringed by palatial belle époque villas sporting curly wrought-iron balustrades. Uphill from the harbour is an old quarter of vine-shaded alleys which converge on the fourteenth-century St George’s Church (Crkva svetog Jurja); the frescoes behind the main altar, which date from 1479, are reminiscent in style of the wall paintings at Beram and other Istrian churches. Opposite the church, the House of St George bears an eighteenth-century relief of the saint slaying a dragon above the doorway; it’s become something of a town trademark.

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