Perched on a hilltop on the old Zagreb–Split road, the small town of SLUNJ hovers above the confluence of the Korana and Slunjčica rivers, with the rushing waters of the latter dropping into the Korana gorge through a series of small waterfalls and burbling rapids. In times past this natural power source led to the development of a riverside watermilling settlement known as Rastoke, where several traditional millers’ buildings still survive – solid structures with stone lower floors and timber upper storeys. It’s a delightful area for a stroll, with wooden bridges crossing gurgling torrents of channelled water, although many of Rastoke’s most picturesque spots are on privately owned land. Otherwise there are excellent views of the gorge from the path above the north bank of the Korana, visible when entering the town by road from the north.