One of the most spectacular of the Lonjsko polje’s strung-out, tumbledown villages is Krapje, whose wooden houses sit in a neat row, spaced at regular intervals – the orderly result of strict regulations introduced by the Habsburg administrators of the so-called Military Frontier, the defensive cordon that ran along Austria’s border with the Ottoman Empire. There is a small private museum in the shape of Etno-Kuća Palaić, containing domestic knick-knacks in a traditional timber house dating from 1912 – call in at the Palaić farmstead (leave a donation) at the northern end of the village to get the key. A path from the park information office leads to the ornithological reserve of Krapje Djol, which serves as an important nesting ground for spoonbills.

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