Tara, the bridge’s western tower, was once a dungeon into which prisoners were thrown to die, either from injury, starvation or – in rainy season – drowning. It’s now the base of the diving club, and the War Photo Exhibition, an array of startling shots taken during the troubles by Kiwi photographer Wade Goddard. Just 22 at the time, Goddard spent this period with a family inside the Old Town, wandering the streets to document the hardships. A little zigzagging will bring you to the Crooked Bridge – apparently built as a warm-up for the big boy, and almost as pleasing; although it (just about) remained standing during the war, it did finally collapse in 1999 due to flooding. Further along is the Tabhana, a former bathhouse now filled with bars and restaurants. Continue to the end of the street and you’ll eventually reach Bulevar, the main road that, during the war, served as the front line – still today, the road is lined with a succession of battered buildings.