Lined with trinket stores, cobblestoned Kujundžiluk climbs uphill, soon leading to the Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque. For all its beauty, the panoply of souvenir sellers shows that tourism, rather than religious endeavour, is the current priority; eschew the 8KM it costs to climb the minaret and instead head down to the terrace where you can get superb head-on views of the bridge. Passing another mosque, the road segues quickly into modern Mostar, though pay attention to signs pointing out the Turkish House on your left, a fascinating peek into the Ottoman traditions of yesteryear. Above Kujundžiluk you’ll see the Cejvan Cehaj Mosque, Mostar’s oldest, on the way to the Museum of Herzegovina. Between the two lies a Muslim graveyard, and it’s hard not to be moved when you notice that almost everybody laid to rest here died the same year, 1993.

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