On the way between Gjirokastra and Saranda is the wonderful Blue Eye, an underwater spring forming a pool of deepest blue. Its setting in a cool, remote grove is quite spectacular – the water is delicious, and you can swim in it until you get the chills (it won’t take long, even in summer). Hop on any bus or minivan plying the Saranda–Gjirokastra route, and ask to be let off at the Syri i Kaltër; the pool is 20min from the road on a decent path.

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