East of neat Glamorgan village, the Windward Road passes the Richmond waterworks on the right before returning to the coast at the tiny village of Belle Garden. Another few kilometres further along Carapuse Bay will take you to the entrance road to the much-visited Argyle Waterfall, the island’s highest waterfall, tumbling 54m out of the greenery into a deep pool.

Just past the entrance, you pay the entrance fee at the Roxborough Estate Visitor Service Co-Operative booth; there’s also a café selling soft drinks and snack. To access the falls, you follow the easily passable cocoa-tree-lined path to a grassy car park. Official guides wearing blue, green or yellow Argyle Waterfall shirts will be waiting here to walk with you to the falls (the guide’s services are included in the entrance fee, although a tip is expected), giving a brief history of the Roxborough Estate and pointing out birds and flowers on the way.

The falls themselves are a pleasant fifteen-minute walk from the car park, and you can hear the water long before you reach it. Argyle is one of Tobago’s most accessible cascades, but to see the best parts you’ll have to exert yourself a little and climb up the right-hand side along steep and sometimes bushy paths. There are three main waterfalls; the second is particularly strong – increased flow during the rainy season (June–Nov) creates a constant fine mist that soon soaks you to the skin. The second tier is great for a dip in a natural jacuzzi, as there are plenty of rocky seats on which to perch and get a pounding shoulder massage. If you’re feeling energetic, climb up even further to the deepest swimming pool – and the smallest section of waterfall – where you can dive or swing in Tarzan-style on a vine. If the climb doesn’t appeal, drive right up to the highest swimming spot.

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