Southwest of Columbus Bay, the views become ever more spectacular as the road winds through the coconut plantation and along a causeway through some beautiful wetlands, with acres of marsh and limpid pools home to a huge variety of birds – look out for scarlet ibis, which roost here at dusk. Past the wetlands, the road winds down to the sleepy little village of Icacos (“eye-car-cus”), a tiny place that nonetheless has a mosque, church and Hindu temple. Turn right when you arrive at the village and walk for about twenty minutes along a track bordered by coconut trees to reach Icacos Point, Trinidad’s extreme southwest tip. It’s a faraway spot, with the vague outline of the Venezuelan coast 11km away across the Serpent’s Mouth, whose swirling waters don’t deter the drug smugglers who use the area’s beaches to bring in Colombian cocaine via Venezuela, eventually destined for the American mainland. Nine kilometres west out to sea, the craggy silhouette of Soldado Rock marks the division between Venezuelan and Trinidadian territorial waters, and is a major breeding site for frigate birds, grey-breasted martins and brown pelicans, and a nesting site of sooty and noddy terns.

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