The Churchill Roosevelt Highway comes to an abrupt end east of Arima, with barely signposted turns north to the EMR, which itself switches abruptly from commercial thoroughfare to rural road, dominated by farmland and an impenetrable wall of rainforest pierced by a few country lanes leading to some marvellous natural attractions. Just after the EMR meets a road heading northwards to join the Arima–Blanchisseuse Road, a turn-off marked “WASA Guanapo Waterworks” brings you to the Heights of Guanapo Road, which runs along the Guanapo River for 3km before petering out into a country lane, often churned up by logging vehicles and best accessed by four-wheel-drive. The logging activity in the area is kept pretty low-key and the area remains a peaceful and beautiful hikers’ paradise, for which you’ll need the help of a knowledgeable guide. Though you can drive further uphill for the lovely views at La Laja Heights, it’s a good idea to park in the large clearing below where logging workers have built a hut, and then walk, as the road is heavily potholed. The main attractions of the area are the breathtaking Guanapo Gorge, and the La Laja and Sombasson waterfalls, two of the most impressive on the island. With effort, you can see both the falls and the gorge in a day, but you’ll need to be pretty fit.

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