The distinctive, flat-topped Mount Tamana is the highest in the Central Range at 308m, and its porous limestone core holds a series of lengthy cave systems which provide the perfect home for huge colonies of bats. The gentle thirty-minute walk up Tamana’s slopes is pleasant enough, threading through shady groves of lichen-covered cocoa trees and under giant silk cotton trees, with the occasional eye-popping view over the Caroni Plains. However, the real draw here are the bats, which make a spectacular exit en masse at dusk to feed. It’s best to arrive around 3pm, in order to have enough time to walk up to the top of the hill and admire the spectacular views over the forested slopes of the Central Range, and descend to the caves before the sun goes down. It’s easy to go inside the first of the caves to peek at the ceiling – almost every inch is covered with roosting bats (though be warned that the bat droppings are copious). As dusk approaches, the first stragglers make their way out, and as the darkness thickens, the trickle becomes a stream as about a million and a half bats shoot past like furry, flapping balls, their sonars clicking away as they avoid flying into you.

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