Heading south from Rincón towards Mayagüez it’s worth making a brief detour to Añasco, a small town “where the gods died”. Taíno cacique (chief) Urayoán had a Spanish soldier drowned in the nearby Río Grande de Añasco to prove the white men weren’t gods, precipitating the rebellion of 1511, but today Añasco is a hard-working blue-collar town some 17km from downtown Rincón.

The best reason for a pit stop is to try the local speciality, hojaldre cakes (literally “puff pastries”, made with brandy and spices), sold from a tiny shop east of the main plaza: Fábrica de Hojaldres (t787/826-5011) is tucked away in a commercial building off Calle 65 Infantería (PR-109) opposite the old Plaza de Mercado – walk through the passage towards the car park at the back and look for the yellow sign. The official address is c/65 Infantería no. 50.

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