Three kilometres out of town on the road to Managua is the old fort of COYOTEPE. Built on a hilltop by the Somoza regime to house political prisoners, the abandoned structure commands stunning views of Masaya and the volcanoes of Masaya and Mombacho, and also offers an eerie reminder of the atrocities carried out here by Somoza’s National Guard: when Sandinistas stormed the fort during the Revolution, the National Guard responded by slaughtering all those inside. It’s now administered by Nicaragua’s Boy Scouts, who will illuminate the tunnels on a torchlit tour and tell you grim tales about Nicaragua’s recent past.

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