Undeniably a highlight of driving along the south coast is the opportunity to indulge in a bag of salty, Scotch-bonnet-spiced boiled pepper shrimp – otherwise known as peppa swimps – fished from the Black River and sold at Middle Quarters. Feel free to sample from the proffered bags before you buy; reckon on around J$500 for a small bag. Buy some to add to your picnic if you’re heading to the YS Falls or take a few minutes out to crunch them on the roadside and have a chat with the women. Incidentally, don’t be intimidated by the ﬁercely competitive approach of the sellers – they are often all members of the same family and if one is lagging in sales for the day, she will usually be thrust forward to clinch the deal. If available, try the equally delicious janga (shrimp) soup (J$300).