RIO BUENO is a quiet village of crumbling eighteenth-century buildings cowering in the shadow of a towering animal-feed factory and lumber export dock – fortuitously absent when the place was used as a set for A High Wind in Jamaica. Now cut off from the main highway, which bypasses the town, you’ll need to look for the two turnings east and west of the village carefully; they’re easily missed. It’s popularly agreed that the “crescent harbour” in Rio Bueno was where Christopher Columbus – having spent a night anchored off St Ann’s Bay during his “discovery” of the island in 1494 – decided to land, recording the bay’s rapidly running river and horseshoe dimensions in his diary. Columbus made a lucky choice as Rio Bueno also boasts one of Jamaica’s deepest harbours. History is also present in the form of a ruined British fort, named after secretary of war Henry Dundas, and dating back to 1778, and in the blue- and white-painted St Mark’s Anglican church, built at the sea’s edge in 1833. The original Baptist church was burnt to the ground by hostile Anglicans – the present incarnation above town was erected in 1901.

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